Tuesday, June 5, 2012

A Day in Piacenza - Tuesday 5th June

A Day in Piacenza - Tuesday 5th June

 

The Church bells announce the morning - usual throughout Italia - reflect.

Another of those early morning teleconferences - will the hotel wi - fi hotel up? - no - revert to prepaid Sim - Sim lasts 15 minutes - not enough Italian to get it recharged - never mind - We have more Rebecchi's to photograph.

 

Had Antonio Giacomo stayed I might have been:

 

 

 



a builder

 

 



 

 

 

or a sweet maker

 

 

 

 

 

 

or a fashion designer

 

 

 

 

 

 

We sit and absorb Piacenza - the stylish Italians remain in Venice - no room for another Massimo Rebecchi store here

 

We drive - we park - we wander - how much has the square changed since Antonio wandered here? - did he really leave because of Austrian oppression? - did he want to avoid conscription? - was it the lure of gold and Irish women? - we drive some more - the countryside displays all of its spring magnificence - why would you leave a place like this? - a rhetorical question even when asked of ourselves - we are seeing this place at a time when nature and politics are treating it kindly.

Time to leave Antonio and his Italy to themselves - confident - polite - welcoming.

 

Occhiobello to Piacenza - Monday 4th June

Occhiobello to Piacenza - Monday 4th June

 

The Villa Pepoli was a delight - dinner, bed and breakfast for 110 Euros - location is not great but the food is so good you will stay in anyway.

No toll roads please - a rainy day - ideal for slow tourism - To Piacenza along the Po River levee for 120k - narrow smooth bitumen - quiet - where are our bikes? - 20 feet of flood restraint for a hundred kilometres - protection for small village after small village - protection for crops of poplar, rice, wheat, maize and pomadore - the greens and yellows sprinkled with the reds and oranges of Italian wild poppies - a food bowl - a significant river - a delightful drive.

 

 

 

 

Approach Piacenza - young, rolling hills surround - nice - clean - pleasing merge of old and new -

 

 

Seek out Casa Rebecchi - no room at the inn!

 

Seek out Trattoria Rebbechi - closed - park - Bernie prowls - returns with Andreas Rebecchi - mother appears - wife appears - brother appears - children appear - talk in hand signals -shattered English - shattered Italian - try the Apple translate solution - no connectivity - revert to mime in support of the shattered English and Italian - more and more sucess - show them the family tree - great interest - pose for a photograph - exchange email addresses.

 

 

Roberto, Andreas' wife, mother Angela, Andreas, Mike, son and daughter Michelle

 

 

 

On our way - sneak back past to enhance the digital record.

 

 

 

 

 

Photograph the countryside back towards Piacenza.


 

 

 

 

The Hotel Mantis with antique Lancias and motorbikes waves us down as we pass Fiorenzuola d'Arda - we stop.

Nap - dinner at Hotel Mantis - local meats - Parma ham - salami - delightful - Richette - speciality of Piacenza - pasta and beans - delicate - delightful - sweets - icecream and strawberries - simple - delightful - a stunning meal made so by stunning ingredients.






 

 

Relieve the hotel of an excess supply of Rebecchi branded stuzzicadenti

 

 

 

 

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Comacchio to Occiobello - Sunday 3rd June

Comacchio to Occiobello - Sunday 3rd June

 

 

 

 

We rise to dine with Julia - she presents an amazing spread - we casually take our leave of a great booking.com experience - the hotel can be recommended !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along the Porto Garibaldi shore - camper van after camper van after camper van - families heading for a day on the beach at 8:00 in the morning.

 

 

 

 

Into Comacchio - tour the town


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Follow the vaile de Comacchio tourist drive - fish farms on canals - enormous nets - fields of wheat and fields of corn - Italian wild poppies clump along the verge - their larger french cousins occasionally join them - Bernie photographs them all to within an electron of their last petal - huge nursery farms with standards and scrubs, with christmas trees and box plants - birds swarm over crops devouring the copious butterflies - walkers out.

 

 

 

 

Further on to national park - We stop to photograph - mosquitoes emerge to show their displeasure at our intrusion into their domain - a hasty retreat - now we understand why a mosquito tolerant kingdom might chose to put itself under the protection of these proficient swarming territorial defenders.

 

 

Onwards to Ferrara - follow the signs to Centro - old walled city centre - people gather for the Sunday market - women shop - men gather - large numbers - small acquaintance groups - convivial chats - earnest discussions - clearly enjoyed and valued by all.

 

 

 

Ferarra - the city of bicycles - the purists would be aghast - seats too low - bikes too old - inefficient riding styles - but fit for purpose - they suit high heels and both feet can touch the ground!

 

Yet another Castle - 1.2 metre long Carp now cruise the moat.

 

Café for lunch - wander inside - Moto 2 race is on - owner glued to TV - stand inside watching for an instant - wander out to complete lunch - waitress urges me back in to sit with the owner - me Italian so Valentino must win! - Stoner good - you stay for GP! - decline - we are tired - off to Villa Poppuli at Occiabello - sleep - organise some Australian meetings for the morning.

 

Rise to dinner - entre - scrimp in pumpkin soup - stunning in taste and simplicity - finish with liquid lemon sorbet - wine glass and straw - equally stunning in taste and simplicity .

 

To bed - Bernie and I both feel the earth move - alas a mild aftershock of the Bologna earthquake .

 

 

 

Friday, June 1, 2012

Venice to Comacchio 2nd June

Venice to Comacchio 2nd June

 

We are finally adjusted to the late rising characteristics of the Old Hostel Montin - we haul our cases down at 8.30 just as the breakfast doors open - we partake - walk with mostly obedient suitcases trailing behind - pause to assist the cases up and over the ponte and onwards to the Alilaguna pier at Zateere - Board for a final journey across Venician waters to the airport and our rejuvenated steed awaiting us in the Marco Polo 2002 parking lot.

 

If the Marco Polo 2002 carparking establishment was a train service it would be a worthy competitor for Vic Rail - given that service ranking we thought it unwise to await the airpark shuttle - how did that Taxi driver do that? - I watch the meter - 8 Euros when we stop - when I look again it is 18! - a good return for a two kilometre trip - never mind - as John Lowenstein would say - "not much in the scheme of things"

 

We front to the Marco Polo 2002 - how much we ask - we hear him say 70 - oh hell he is a rippoff artist as well - pull out the rapidly tiring credit card - no! - cash only! - we fumble we only have 50 between us - what will we do - we fumble some more - what you doing? - I say 17 - we peel off the money and bid him farewell.

 

Southward from Venice along the Adriactic - fields of teenage corn, poplar plots, village after village, speed change sign after speed change sign all dutifully ignored by our Italian friends - why are they slowing down? - Tommy screams at us "radar" as soon as he stops screaming our Italian friends have become a speck in the distance - was Tommy quick enough to alert us? - the Australian postman will tell us when we get home!

 

 

Ah - Chioggia - little Venice - we stop - park in the old town - stroll - lots of beutification work going on - note some minor earth quake damage - get an Italian sim card - lovely lady - E10 for sim and initial credit - 250Mb for week - amazing how a transaction can be completed with handsigns.

 

Given that Chioggia is moving to increase its tourism we have some advice for the town - establish a by-law as follows - "young ladies shall not ride their electric bicycles at speeds in excess of 5 kilometers per hour" - this law is proposed in the interests of minimising hospitalisation costs for tourists - we believe these hospitalisation costs can arise from two sources - heart failure of ageing males or severe brain injury as a result of an impact to the head inflicted on the tourist by their partner - the risk of hospitalisation is believed to be influenced by 5 factors - the age of the tourist, the speed of the bicycle, the bumpiness of the road, the extent of female endowment and the efficiency of their bosum restraint mechanism.

 

The old town is busy at midday on a Saturday morning - everyone - young and old seems to have a modern electric bike - they all use them to their maximum potential some by use of the throttle and some by use of the pedals - we have been warned about Italian drivers but they seem tame compared to an Australian "tradie" - no one warned us about Italian cyclists - they rush about with skill and agility using a set of unpublished rules of transit that are understood by pedestrian and bike rider alike - watching as they go about their business is something that should be on the itinerary of every foreign tourist .

 

Onwards to Comaggio - on the Po delta - we turn to Port Garibaldi and the lovely Hotel Julia. - what will the be like? - we approach the beach - the town is busy with weekend holiday makers -there is Julia- not a carpark in sight - Bernie and the suitcases are deposited at Julia's portico - the Eurocar is tethered a few streets away - back to Julia - what is she like ?

 

 

 

 

Magnificent - we are special - she will look over us as we sleep.

 

 

Complete the siesta - rise to join the hundreds of people making the promenade along the town's shopping strip - look for the stylish Italian - hard to find! - the walkers are joined by amazingly skillful cyclists in ages from 10 to 100 - they speed and weave their way through the crowds - their way made secure by their skill and by their shared knowledge of those unpublished rules of pedestrian / cyclist interaction that remain a mystery to observers like us.

 

We leave the promenade - to the beach - thousands of umbrellas, a mullitude of identical sun lounges, beach volleyball courts, complete extended families, kite surfers, swimmers - Lots of Tony Abbott lookalikes - nothing like Bondi - ah - an Italian in a Bondi tee shirt - Bernie chats to him - photographs him - he loves Australia - we are in an Italian beach holiday haven swollen by the flock of sun starved locals keen to set aside the deprivations of winter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another day in Venice 1st June

Another day in Venice 1st June

 

This is the day of the Vaporetto .

 

We have the day planned - to Burano to see the Lace Museum followed by time at Rialto, dinner and a night time ride home down the Grand Canal - the best laid plans of mice and men!

 

It all starts out according to plan - we catch the Vaporetto but somehow we take the anticlockwise route and find ourselves at Lido - let's get off here and have breakfast - there is a place - no we don't make breakfast- some toast?- out comes a badly made toasted ham and cheese sandwich glazed with carbon with the combination rescued by cups of Italian cappuccino.

 

We partake of breakfast and watch the people go about their business - where have all the stylish Italians gone? - the Lidostians we see at 10 in the morning have none of the style of their main island brothers and sisters - perhaps the stylish ones have been sent off on the Vaporetto to work in Venice - perhaps not - perhaps Lido is something different - after all it has cars and buses and all kinds of things mechanical with hardly a gondola in sight

 

 

 

 

There is a bike hire place - we can go to Burano later - we ride around the tiny island past the manicured beachs of the Adriatic with their bathing huts - past nice if not stunning houses of the middle classes - past residences for the relatively well to do working classes - save for the beggars and the north African refugees this appears to be a well healed community - we continue on past a small market and back to the pier - there is still no sign of the stylish Italians of Venice proper.

 

Off to Burano past Murano - there are words to a song right there! - what do I say about Burano? - I could say - "Toy World" - I could say "Venice World " at Disney Land - I could say the wonton destruction of a natural human environment in pursuit of the tourist dollar - I could say a lovely clean little island filled with quaint brightly coloured houses laid out along spotless canals and squares occupied by all manner of stalls and shops in support of a lace theme - the reality is that it is all of these things - the reality is also that much of the lace that is for sale bears no small measure of resemblance to lace produced in the mechanised factories of China - perhaps that is unfair since I saw no trace of the Chinese entrepreur and his north African collegues that caught our attention in Venice yesterday.

 

 

We said this was a be the day of the Vaporetto - it turned out to be true! - An hour and a half from Burano to Venice visiting every stop on the way including some more than once - too much of a good thing leaves you feeling jaded especially when it delivers you back into Venice in peak hour - thank god for the restaurant at Antica Locandar Montin - it washed away the memory of the return trip from Burano.

 

We head out of Venice tomorrow